Solstice Mittens: A Free Crochet Pattern
By Candice Lynn
It’s been so much fun designing the Solstice line of hat and mitts/mittens. The half double crochet ribbing is one of my favorites to wear and to create. This pair of full mittens uses the same stitch pattern and type of construction as the Solstice Fingerless Mitts.
I made the mittens with Lion Brand Wool-ease, which is 20% wool and 80% acrylic. It has a wonderful warm and stretchy quality and a slight fuzzy haze. You can substitute another heavy worsted or aran weight yarn if you would like (be sure to check your gauge and make adjustments if needed by adjusting your tension or changing hook sizes).
Speaking of gauge, be sure to check your gauge often while working on this project — a common beginner mistake when making a pair of socks or mittens is to crochet each with different tension. When I crocheted a pair of mittens for the first time years ago, the second one came out a completely different size than the first one I made! This was most likely due to factors such as becoming more sure of the stitches, more familiar with the pattern, and working on the second one at a much faster pace.
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1 skein Lion Brand Wool Ease 80% Acrylic, 20% Wool, 197 yards (180 m), 3 oz (85 g)
J-10 (6 mm) crochet hook
4 ” (10 cm) = 14 stitches and 10 rows in half double crochet in the third loop
S (M, L)
Instructions are written for the smallest size, with other sizes shown in parentheses. When only one number is given, it applies to all sizes.
To find your size, measure your hand around the widest part (where the fingers meet the palm). The mittens have up to .5 inch of negative ease (stretch).
|Size||Actual hand measurements (circumference)|
7 inches (18 cm)
8 inches (20 cm)
|Adult Large||9 inches (23 cm)|
9.5 (10,5, 11.5) inches length and 7 (8, 9) inches circumference
24 (26.5,29)cm length and 17.8 (20.3, 22.8 ) cm circumference
This pattern uses US crochet terms.
Treat the two chains at the beginning of each row (the turning chain) as the first stitch. Don’t put a half double crochet into the very first stitch of the row below, instead go to the very next stitch to complete the second half double crochet. At the end of the row, put the last half double crochet into the top of the turning chain. As an alternative, you can ignore the turning chain and put a half double crochet into the very first stitch of the previous row. If you choose this approach, be sure not to crochet into the turning chain at the end of each row, and don’t count the turning chains when you are counting your stitches.
The knit-look stitch pattern is created by using the technique of half double crochet in the third loop (sometimes called “camel stitch”) to create a super stretchy ribbed fabric. When half double crochet stitches are worked, there is a “third” loop that is created in the back of the stitch – crocheting into this loop creates the special texture.
Half double crochet (hdc) in the third loop: Yarn over, insert hook into the third loop of the hdc stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), yarn over and pull through all three loops on the hook.
Half double crochet 2 together (hdc2tog): Yarn over, insert hook into the next stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), yarn over and insert hook into the next stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop (5 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through all 5 loops on the hook.
hdc = half double crochet
hdc2tog = half double crochet 2 together
ch = chain
st = stitch
sts = stitches
Main body of the mitten:
Ch 36 (40,43)
Hdc in the 3rd ch from the hook, then hdc in each of the next sts to the end of the row.
Ch 2 (counts as a stitch here and throughout), turn. Skip the 1st hdc, hdc in the third loop of the next hdc and each hdc to the end of the row. 35 (39,42) sts
Rows 3 through 17 (19, 21)
Repeat instructions for Row 2. Fasten off.
You will now have a rectangle of crocheted fabric. Fold the fabric in half so that the foundation chain meets the last row that you crocheted.
Use stitch markers to indicate sts 14 – 19 (14 – 22, 14 -23). These stitches will be left open in order to create the opening for the thumb.
Using an approximately 10” length of yarn and a yarn needle or tapestry needle, seam the edges of the first and last rows together, from stitches 1 through 13. Fasten off, then skip over the next 6 (9, 10 ) stitches. Reattach the yarn and continue seaming to the end of the fabric. Fasten off.
At the fingertips end of the mitten, weave about 4” of yarn evenly through the stitches at the top, then pull tight to close together.
To crochet the thumb, we will use single crochet and half double crochet stitches in joined rounds.
If you look at the opening where we will crochet the thumb, you will see two rows of stitches on either side, and two spaces (one at each end of the thumb opening where the rows meet). We will create the first round of the thumb by placing one single crochet stitch in each of the stitches and one single crochet in each space.
Using a slip stitch, attach new yarn to one of the stitches in the thumb opening. Ch 1, sc in the same stitch and then in each stitch around, as well as the two spaces. Join the last sc to the first with a slip stitch. There will be 14 (20, 22) single crochets in total.
Ch2 (counts as a stitch here and throughout), skip the first sc, hdc in the next sc and in each stitch around, join with a slip stitch. 14 (20, 22) hdc.
Ch 2, turn. Skip the first hdc, hdc in the next 4 (7, 8) sts, hdc2tog in the next 2 sts, hdc in the next 5 (8, 9) sts, hdc2tog in the next 2 sts, join. 12 (18, 20) hdc.
Ch 2, turn. Skip the first hdc, hdc in the next 3 (6, 7) sts, hdc2tog in the next 2 sts, hdc in the next 4 (7, 8) sts, hdc2tog in the next 2 sts, join. 10 (16,18) hdc.
Ch 2, turn. Skip the first hdc, hdc in the next 2 (5, 6) sts, hdc2tog in the next 2 sts, hdc in the next 3 (6, 7) sts, hdc2tog in the next 2 sts, join. 8 (14, 16) hdc.
Ch 2, turn. Skip the first hdc, hdc in the next 1 (4, 5) sts, hdc2tog in the next 2 sts, hdc in the next 2 (5, 6) sts, hdc2tog in the next 2 sts, join. 6 (12, 14) hdc.
For Size Small:
Fasten off, leaving a yarn tail. Use the yarn tail to weave evenly through the stitches at the top of the thumb and cinch together. Weave in all loose ends.
For Sizes Medium and Large:
Ch 2, turn. Skip the first hdc, hdc in the next 3 (4) stitches, hdc2tog in the next 2 sts, hdc in the next 4 (5) stitches, hdc2tog in the next 2 sts, join. 10 (12) hdc.
For Size Medium:
Fasten off, leaving a yarn tail. Use the yarn tail to weave evenly through the stitches at the top of the thumb and cinch together. Weave in loose ends.
For Size Large:
Ch 2, turn. Skip the first hdc, hdc in the next 3 sts, hdc2tog in the next 2 sts, hdc in the next 4 sts, hdc2tog in the next 2 sts, join. 10 hdc.
Fasten off, leaving a yarn tail. Weave evenly through the stitches at the top of the thumb and cinch together. Weave in all loose ends.
© 2022 by Candice Lynn (Crochet Confidential). This pattern is for personal use only. You may use the pattern to make unlimited items for yourself, for charity, or to give as gifts. You are free to sell the items you make with this pattern. Do not distribute this pattern or the photos in any form — if you want to share the pattern, point your friends to this link: https://crochetconfidential.com/free-crochet-pattern-solstice-fingerless-mitts/. Thank you for your support!
Thank you for this clearly written pattern. I know who needs these mittens, and the birthday is next month. 🙂 I just have to choose the colour of yarn and then I’m off to my local yarn shop. The winter days here are short and dreary but now that I have a project to work on I have something to look forward to. I admire your creativity and appreciate your generosity in sharing the pattern. Thank you!
Thank you for the great feedback! I think these will make a wonderful birthday present.
What a great beginner friendly crochet mittens pattern this is!
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